The Christian Hypothesis

It was never quite clear what people should call me when I was on the job.

To begin with, my first name, Matthew, carries with it some inherent difficulties when transliterated into Japanese, namely that there is no “TH” sound.  My students pronounced my name “Mah-shew,” which was pretty adorable, but did not really address issues of protocol and respect.  Depending on the school and the class, I was referred to as just “Matthew,” “Matthew-sensei,” “Matt-sensei,” “Mr. Matt,” or by the simple title of “Teacher.”  I didn’t even try to teach them my last name, which contains not only another “TH” sound, but also an “L.”

One day while we were walking to class, the Japanese English teacher I worked with at the School of Suck in Shizukuishi asked me about the origins of my name.

“The name ‘Matthew’ is from the Bible, yes?”

“Yes,” I said.  ”In the Bible, Matthew was one of the disciples of Jesus.”

“Disciples?” he said.

“Followers,” I said.  The teacher nodded and grunted in affirmation.  I said, “Matthew also wrote one of the books of the Bible.”

“In the New Testament,” the teacher said, eager to show off his knowledge of Western religion.

A few days after this conversation I was in a class being bombarded with queries; occasionally we would just give up on the lesson and let the students ask me questions about myself or American culture or whatever, usually translated from Japanese by this same teacher, who supervised me while I was teaching at the School of Suck.  The boys in that class were very interested to hear about guns and the American military, coming as they did from a place where guns are not present anywhere.  One of them asked me if I’d ever fired a gun before, to which I replied, “Yes.”

“What was it like?” they asked, via the Japanese instructor.

I thought about this for a moment.  ”It hurt,” I said.  There were disbelieving exclamations of “Ehhhhhhh?” and “Uso!” that were pretty common occurrences in these sorts of conversations.  To clarify my point, I mimed shooting a rifle and rubbed my shoulder with a pained look on my face, and most of the students seemed to understand that I was talking about the recoil, although it looked as though this was not something they’d ever thought of.

Another student asked, “In America, did you fire a gun often?”

“No,” I said.  ”I do not like guns.”  This was an oversimplification of my general attitude towards firearms, but oversimplification out of necessity was always the way of things in Japan.  My students apparently had a hard time grasping how I could have lived my whole life in the United States and not have spent all my time blowing the crap out of milk bottles and bowling pins.  What a wasted youth.  Then their Japanese teacher pointed at me and said “Christian desu,” by way of explanation.  The conversation that ensued lasted about 15 seconds, during which time I assume he was explaining the Christian idealization of nonviolence—not actually seen all that often in the Western world anymore, but it is technically in the books.  The conversation ended with a lot of nods and knowing smiles.  I did not have the patience or the inclination to clarify that many Christians in my country were actually super hardcore gun enthusiasts, or that calling me a Christian at all was kind of a stretch, thus perpetuating an idealized and largely incorrect  stereotype.

As I’ve said before, I didn’t really have the proper disposition to be a teacher.

A few weeks later I was experiencing a similar barrage of questions, this time from the girl’s side of one of the first year classes at the School of Suck.  It began with them wanting to know if I had a girlfriend in the United States, and also if I had a girlfriend in Japan.

For some reason, many of the girls at both of the schools where I taught were obsessed with getting me laid.  It was endearing, if a tad creepy.

I’d already opened Pandora’s Box by telling them that my regular tutor at the weekly Japanese class I attended was a woman about my age, and they wanted to know why we hadn’t hooked up.  None of my explanations for this lack of action were acceptable to them, and in fact even a year later I actually am still not quite sure about the answer to that question myself, except to say that I am very stupid.

Before the situation became too embarrassing—when my blush reflex is triggered my entire head turns the color of a tomato, which tended to cause a lot of chaotic situations when standing in front of 40 high school age kids who had limited experience with white people—and without any prompting from me, the Japanese instructor mentioned the Christian Hypothesis once more, and all was once again right with the world.  In fact, the Christian Hypothesis became a convenient explanation for all sorts of weird things that I did or failed to do during my tenure as ALT at the School of Suck.

This did not, however, save me from being berated for my failure to take a Japanese lover by that same asshole teacher one night when we split a pizza and a bottle of red wine at this little “Italian” place in Morioka.  I think he thought I was retarded—like, literally, retarded:

“Your Japanese instructor is a woman?” he said.

“Yes,” I said.

“And she is how old?”

“24,” I said.

“And you are how old?”

“24,” I said.

To him it was as simple as that, and he shook his head while his face wore an exasperated frown.  I could have hated him for that, if I hadn’t already hated him for all of the bullshit he put me through during school hours.  Really, the only good thing to come of that evening would be later on when this guy commented how surprised he was at my alcohol tolerance.  “I did not expect you to be able to drink this much,” he said.

Only in Japan would that ever happen.

Boy, Interrupted

For a long time after returning back to the United States, months and months, I found myself uttering some permutation of the phrase, “Hey, I just got back from Japan,” to justify all sorts of lapses and indulgences on my part.  If I felt tired and didn’t feel like doing any job hunting on a particular day, I’d tell myself that that was okay, that I had a window of ennui in which it was acceptable for me to act like a college student on summer vacation.  If I didn’t feel like working on my exercise routine or eating healthy food, I’d tell myself that I had a window in which to allow myself to lapse.  My feeling was that I had just accomplished something truly extraordinary, and that doors should to life should be thrown open as I walked up to them like in the opening of “Get Smart.”  It felt as if I had just gotten back from Japan up until some vague point about two weeks ago when I found myself thinking of Japan in a wistful and very-much-nostalgic sort of way as if that whole affair had gone down decades before. This shift has been reflected in many small ways throughout my daily life, as in a conversation with one of my coworkers during a slow period at work in which I was trying to justify why it was that I had not yet moved on to bigger and better things.
“Hey, give me a break, I said. “I just got back from Japan.” This must be what it feels like to return from a war, minus the post-traumatic stress disorder.
“Wasn’t that, like, five months ago?” she said.
I paused, my momentum reduced to zero, cocked my head to one side in consideration, and said, “I suppose.”
This conversation took place about six months ago.  I guess that means it’s time to move on.
Lately I’ve been occupied with applying to law school after taking the LSAT and receiving a pretty decent score.  At this point I’ve heard back from and been accepted to nine schools out of a total of 12 applications that I’ve submitted to various places.  Four or five of those schools to which I’ve been accepted are even ones that I actually want to go to, so well done there as well.  The next step is figuring out where I’ll best fit and how I’m going to pay for it.
My decision to pursue a JD flies in the face of several years of liberal arts posturing on the part of my high school and college self.  For a long time I always assumed I would be a writer and that that would become my regular day job through some nebulous process that I did not ever grasp, although I rarely let the label of “writer” define my actions by, you know, actually ever writing anything.  Years later I discovered that being a freelancer basically means that your job is to constantly be applying for jobs, and this career path seemed much less attractive to me.
I’ve come to the slow realization that I have already done the scariest thing I am ever likely to do.  Whatever else happens, I can rest easy in the knowledge that I spent seven months staring down a roomful after roomful of 30 or 40 catatonic Japanese high school kids and was somehow able to get through it.  I feel pretty good about whatever the future holds, confident as I am that I’ll find a way to handle anything that comes my way.

For a long time after returning back to the United States, months and months, I found myself uttering some permutation of the phrase, “Hey, I just got back from Japan,” to justify all sorts of lapses and indulgences on my part.  If I felt tired and didn’t feel like doing any job hunting on a particular day, I’d tell myself that that was okay, that I had a window of ennui in which it was acceptable for me to act like a college student on summer vacation.  If I didn’t feel like working out or eating healthy food, I’d tell myself that I had a grace period in which to allow myself to lapse.  My feeling was that I had just accomplished something truly extraordinary, and that doors should to life should be thrown open as I walked up to them like in the opening of “Get Smart.”  It felt as if I had just gotten back from Japan up until some vague point several months ago when I found myself thinking of Japan in a wistful and very-much-nostalgic sort of way as if that whole affair had gone down decades before. This shift has been reflected in many small ways throughout my daily life, as in a conversation with one of my coworkers during a slow period at work in which I was trying to justify why it was that I had not yet moved on to bigger and better things.

“Hey, give me a break, I said. “I just got back from Japan.” This must be what it feels like to return from a war, minus the post-traumatic stress disorder.

“Wasn’t that, like, five months ago?” she said.

I paused, my momentum reduced to zero, cocked my head to one side in consideration, and said, “I suppose.”

This conversation took place about six months ago.  I guess that means it’s time to move on.

Lately I’ve been occupied with applying to law school after taking the LSAT and receiving a pretty decent score.  At this point I’ve heard back from and been accepted to nine schools out of a total of 12 applications that I’ve submitted to various places.  Four or five of those schools to which I’ve been accepted are even ones that I actually want to go to, so well done there as well.  The next step is figuring out where I’ll best fit and how I’m going to pay for it.

My decision to pursue a JD flies in the face of several years of liberal arts posturing on the part of my high school and college self.  For a long time I always assumed I would be a writer and that that would become my regular day job through some nebulous process that I did not ever grasp, although I rarely let the label of “writer” define my actions by, you know, actually ever writing anything.  Years later I discovered that being a freelancer basically means that your job is to constantly be applying for jobs, and this career path seemed much less attractive to me.

“Worse Than Coleslaw” should begin being updated more regularly now that I have some distance and perspective on things and am no longer under the pressure to get it all down right now while it’s fresh in my mind holy crap there’s so much happening in every single second and how am I going to write about it all? I foresee future posts taking the form of short, disembodied anecdotes about my life in Japan that I never had the time or the patience to incorporate into a larger discussion of underlying themes or neuroses.  These will be interspersed with details on the law school admissions process, thoughts on the life of a twenty-something semi-recluse, and any other stupid thing that I feel like writing about.

I’ve come to the slow realization that I have already done the scariest thing I am ever likely to do, barring anything crazy like a combat situation or battling cancer.  Whatever else happens, I can rest easy in the knowledge that I spent seven months staring down a roomful after roomful of 30 or 40 catatonic Japanese high school kids and was somehow able to get through it.  I feel pretty good about whatever the future holds, confident as I am that I’ll find a way to handle anything that comes my way.

Sansa Odori and the Infinite Sadness

Yeah, it’s been a while.  I have no excuses; although I have been busy trying to get myself situated now that I’m back home, it’s not the kind of busy where I don’t have time to pursue my hobbies.  Mostly I am just lazy, although there are times when I think that I might have undiagnosed ADD on which I can blame my lack of motivation and focus.  But the important thing is that I am back on the wagon now and have some important things to share with you.

Now that I’m no longer employed in Japan, I feel more comfortable using the actual names of things and posting certain pieces of media that I had previously refrained from sharing.  As I have mentioned before, I still have quite a bit of media to work through.  With that in mind, I present to you item the first, a collection of videos that show a performance of the Sansa Odori, a traditional Japanese dance from the area around Morioka in Japan’s Iwate prefecture that, unlike most other forms of traditional dance, is actually fucking awesome rather than boring and lame.  This performance was put on by the Shizukuishi High School Traditional Dance Club (that name may lose something in the translation).  According to their sponsor, these students have traveled all over Japan to showcase the .  There are even plans for them to travel to Turkey for some kind of world conference or some such.  I taught most of the students in this video, which just makes watching it cooler.

My first exposure to this dance was at a special performance the club members put on for me in their tiny practice space when I started teaching at Shizukuishi High School.  I was not a huge fan of teaching at this school, frequently referring to it as the “School of Suck,” but seeing these kids perform for the first time, feeling the drums in that enclosed space and having all of my expectations vis a vis the general lameness of “heritage art forms” done away with, was one of the greatest moments of my life because for that one perfect, split second I realized that I was exactly where I wanted to be doing exactly what I wanted to do and would not change a single thing, a complete contentment that I do not experience often.

The first part of the video has been embedded into the website for your convenience.  I have linked to the other two parts  The entire performance is kind of long, but it’s worth watching all the way through because with each phase the dance gets more and more elaborate and cool:

Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKiv_B1j1Ks
Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvFd8UiRGaQ

Item the second: I have pictures up on Picasa from my trip to Kyoto in April, 2009.  Kyoto is a fun place that every human would benefit from seeing at least once in her or his life.  Here are some choice moments in all of their embedded Flash-y goodness:

Don’t Say “Domo Arigatou” Because It Makes You Sound Like You’re Mentally Deficient: Styx Lied To You Because They Are Terrible Lying Liars

So I have mentioned previously that I visited Osaka for a few days at the tail end of the extended vacation I took back immediately after my teaching gig was over and done with. One of the things I did while I was in Osaka was attend Punkfest ‘09, a two-day concert featuring a number of prominent American alternative bands—Bad Religion, Less Than Jake, NOFX, Mindless Self Indulgence, Rise Against, and then some others I didn’t care about—and even a few totally swee Japanese ones—most notably Oreskaband, who put on what may be the best live show I have ever seen, ever.

It was interesting to observe the way the American bands carried themselves in front of a foreign audience. In more than a few cases the bands kind of acted like dicks: antagonizing people in the crowd, American-style swagger and grandstanding, excessive and asinine onstage banter along the lines of “we should really stop doing so much onstage banter because no one here can understand what we’re saying tee hee,” that kind of stuff. NOFX were especially bad, and even threw in a few jokes about kamikazes and atom bombs, which I guess isn’t that surprising. Bad Religion, Rise Against, and Madina Lake (who I’d never heard of before) were all pretty cool and played the part of gracious guests. That spoke well of them; the Japanese like humility.

Anyways, one thing I did notice was that the lead singers from almost all of the American acts at Punkspring began their sets with the phrase “Doumo arigatou Osaka!” I guess most people in the United States think “doumo arigatou” is how to say “thank you” in Japanese; I know that’s what I thought back before my stint as an ALT. But this was a strange phrase to hear after seven months in Japan, because that’s not actually how people say “thank you” in Japan.

In English, the standard terms for thanking people are modular. We start with the mother of them all, the phrase “thank you very much,” which we use when we feel strong gratitude. When we feel a smaller amount of gratitude we say “thank you” or “thanks” as a more formal, less emphatic form of expressing what is essentially the same sentiment.

Japanese is the same way. You start with the base phrase “doumo arigatou gozaimasu,” which is equivalent to “thank you very much.” For more informal situations—your server brings you your food, for example, or one of your students tells you they like your tie—you say “arigatou gozaimasu,” which is the most commonly used “thank you” phrase in day-to-day life. “Doumo” or “arigatou” can be used by themselves as even less formal substitutes if you are cultivating an air of jaded detachment, but you will never, ever hear a Japanese person use the phrase “doumo arigatou.” That just doesn’t happen. I admit that I do not know enough about the etymology of the Japanese language to explain what each of these words mean on their own: like many phrases I learned in Japan, I know when to use them but not exactly what they mean. My understanding, though, is that saying “domo arigatou” is along the same lines as an English-speaker saying “Thank you very.” Yeah, I know Styx sang that one song with the line “Doumo arigatou Mr. Roboto,” but it’s never a good idea to base your knowledge of the world on shitty corporate rock from the 1970’s.

As a final aside, it’s worth noting that after Mindless Self Indulgence’s set, the drummer—a somewhat-chubby woman with pigtails—grabbed the microphone from the lead singer and said, “Doumo arigatou gozaimashita!” which not only is the correct phrasing but is even in the past tense to indicate that she is thanking them for being a good audience. I was impressed, especially since MSI was arguably the least cerebral of all the bands playing that day.


New Photos: Sapporo Snow Festival

I’m in the process of working through all the remaining material from my time in Japan: pictures, videos, amusing anecdotes, and all the rest. Towards that end, photos from my trip to Sapporo for the Snow Festival there can be found on my Picasa page. Or you can just look at the bottom of this entry and use the super high-tech embedded slide show action instead, if that’s more your speed. The pictures are pretty bangin’, I must say.

Tips for Future (And Current, I Guess) Assistant Language Teachers in Japanese High Schools (May Apply to Other Locations and Education Levels, But Milage May Vary)

Social Aspects

  1. Determine how comfortable you are with lying to your students. Your relationship with your students will be built on them asking and being asked simple questions such as “What is your favorite musical group?”  Now, maybe your favorite band is Neutral Milk Hotel—and why shouldn’t it be?  However, the person who asked you the question has no idea what the fuck a Neutral Milk Hotel is, and you aren’t going to be able to explain it to them.  Your answer will be met with blank stares and disappointment.  Conversely, if you answer “Green Day,” or “Avril Lavigne,” or even “Nirvana,” suddenly the person who asked you this will get excited and say, “Oh, me too me too me too!”  You have just established a rapport.  You can definitely make the case that this is a disingenuous, Machiavellian way to live—and you are well within your rights to decide that you don’t want to lie to your students under any circumstances.  But given the limitations on your ability to communicate, it is also a very effective way to ingratiate yourself to the people whose continued goodwill you rely on.
  2. This is prison rules. Since your job description is quite poorly defined and subject to the whims of the Japanese teachers you work with, it’s important to establish expectations early on.  If you want to go to clubs after school and hang out, do it as early as possible.  Don’t arrive super early or stay late on your first day.  With such a poorly defined position, the expectations of those monitoring you will be formed in large part by your own actions.  You want to ease into certain things, but do everything you can to establish your identity and “character” quickly before you get stuck doing things you don’t want to do.
  3. If you do not have the ability already, learn to snap your fingers, moon walk, and do that thing where you put your fingers in your mouth and whistle really loudly. Many of your students, especially the younger ones, will have never seen someone do these things and will thus be very impressed.
  4. Buy some weird ties from someplace like CyberOptix or similar. It is not easy to establish your identity as the cool teacher through words since very few of the kids you are teaching can understand what you are saying, you need to establish a persona through nonverbal methods.  Oddball ties are a great way to do further this goal, assuming you are a dude… or a lady who is inclined to incorporate ties into her daily ensembles.
  5. Set your hipster street cred on fire. Japanese high schoolers love American music.  More specifically, they love the kind of American music that no self-respecting, tight-pants-wearing “Pitchfork Media” enthusiast would ever listen to even under penalty of death, but you’d have to be stoned or stupid to think that you are somehow earning any points with your students by giving them a bunch of obscure German synth-pop bands no one’s ever heard of when they ask you what kind of music you like.  Additionally, none of the bands whose CDs made your “Top Ten” list this year will have any songs you can sing at karaoke, so stop being a pretentious dick, have another beer, and sing “Wonderwall” already.
  6. Don’t like sports?  You do now.
  7. Incidentally, your new favorite baseball team is either the New York Yankees or the Boston Red Sox. Those are the only two American baseball teams your students have heard of because those two teams have popular Japanese players on them.
  8. Learn to sing “Linda Linda” by the Blue Hearts. It is a great sing-along sort of tune that is well known by almost everyone in Japan, perfect for breaking out at karaoke while in the company of Japanese people—be they your coworkers or just some people you met on the street—who will be thoroughly impressed by your performance.  Luckily, the chorus is pretty easy to remember.  It goes “Linda Linda, Linda Linda Linda, Linda Linda, Linda Linda Linda.”  Think you can manage that?
  9. No one in Japan has ever heard of the pillows or “Cowboy Bebop.” If you have made it to Japan, you have probably watched and enjoyed Cowboy Bebop and downloaded the entire pillows discography after hearing their music in FLCL, and are excited to be in the land that created both of these things.  That’s fine; they are both quality works, and anyone who gives you shit about being a fanboy or whatever is a bad person who doesn’t believe in intellectual curiosity.  If a Japanese person asks you your favorite Japanese band, you will want to say “the pillows.”  This is only natural.  But that person will almost never know what the hell you are talking about.
  10. No one will understand any of your jokes. You’re probably a very hilarious person back home, but the rules of humor changed while you were in the air over the Pacific Ocean.  In the context of your daily life, humor consists entirely of sight gags and references to Japanese pop culture.
  11. Eat lots of Japanese food. Besides the fact that Japanese food is often delicious, “What are your favorite Japanese foods?” will almost always be the first question anyone in Japan asks you.
  12. Figure out your blood type. Offhand you probably have no idea what your blood type is, but blood types are a Thing in Japan.  Your blood type is believed to say something about your personality, like your astrological sign or the results of a Rorschach test.  Your students will want to know what your blood type is, and you run the risk of sounding like a dweeb if you can’t answer them when they ask you.  Not knowing yours is an excellent excuse to give blood, which is a thing that you should be doing anyway.

You aren’t afraid of a little text now, are you? Keep reading for professional tips and things to keep in mind.

Tourist Spotlight: Iwatayama Monkey Park

The job’s over and done with, and my time in Japan is running out.  A lot’s happened, and I have many interesting things to say but not so much opportunity to say them just now.  I’ve been “on the road” (in a purely metaphysical sense, since all of my traveling thus far has been done by train) for about a week and a half now.  Crashed for a few days in a fellow ALT’s new apartment amid the Yokohama Hills—which resemble the movie “City of God” but a lot more upscale—before making my way to Kyoto, and then Osaka.  I’ve visited a lot of cool places and done a lot of tourist-y stuff.  Pictures will be forthcoming, but I’d like to take a moment to write about one of the highlights of my trip, the Iwatayama Monkey Park in the southern part of Kyoto.

The Iwatayama Monkey Park is near the Hankyu Railway’s Arashiyama Station, which makes it sort of a pain in the ass to get to as the Hankyu line is privately run and doesn’t connect seamlessly with the Japan Rail lines that people use most often.  This can be seen as a benefit, though, since it means that the monkey park is not all that popular as a tourist destination despite the fact that there really are only so many shrines and temples—Kyoto’s main points of interest, in other words—one can honestly expect to visit in a condensed amount of time.  And even if you aren’t sick of looking at old religious buildings by the time you make it to Arashiyama, you have to pass through a small Shinto shrine to get to the monkey park anyway, which is an example of working smarter rather than harder.  Once past the aforementioned Shinto shrine, it’s up the side of a mountain along some zig-zagging dirt paths to a flat section near the top. Iwatayama Monkey Park is not a zoo, but a sort of nature reserve; apparently these macaque monkeys are actually native to the mountain and the surrounding areas, which I did not know.  Even along the paths you can see the monkeys frolicking freely with no barrier between them and the park’s visitors.  There are few guard rails on the narrow paths up the side of the mountain, which is pretty normal for Japan.  You can purchase peanuts or apple slices to feed the monkeys for a very reasonable 100 yen, and although the feeding has to be done through a fence from within the rest house near the top of the mountain, outside of that you are able to mingle freely with the nature.  A handout given at the gate to all visitors warns you to not make eye contact with the monkeys because they can be aggressive, and that’s pretty much the extent of the buffer between you and the beasts.

What was great about this small attraction, beyond the fact that it allows you to feed monkeys ohmygosh wow, is that it all just works.  Everyone is cool and hangs out watching the monkeys fool around.  No one screams “OOOH OOOH OOOH AHHH AHHH” noises at the monkeys the way people do at zoos in America.  There is no litter, either along the path or around the summit where the park is located, and none of the trees have asinine bullshit carved into them.  The signs say not to touch the monkeys, so no one touches the monkeys—or if they do, they have the sense not to get caught.  I was there for a little over an hour (I was waiting to meet some friends who got lost trying to find the place), and at no point did I witness anything that could be defined as a dick move.

I spent a few moments trying to imagine a similar set up working in America, and it just doesn’t seem feasible to me at all.  You just know that there would really be only two ways such a venture could end.  I’d give it a week, maybe two, before a monkey would choke on a discarded candy bar wrapper and the whole undertaking would have to be dismantled and the area declared off limits to preserve the animal population.  Either that or the park would get sued out of existence by some litigious parent whose hellspawn looked at an alpha male monkey cross-eyed and got his or her ass bit.  It’d be a race to see who could cry “foul” first.  And if you think I’m being needlessly misanthropic, just look at what happens at amusement parks when some kid undoes his or her safety harness and falls splat to the ground: the ride or even the whole park has to be closed down as an act of penance by its administrators despite the very obvious fact that their mechanical fun machines were not to blame for the accident.

I keep coming back to this point, but one thing that I definitely will miss about living in Japan is not having to devote nearly as much of my time and attention on dealing with other people’s ignorant bullshit.  I mean, where in America would I be able to do this?:

Feeding a monkey.

Video of the park and of monkeys doing adorable monkey stuff can be viewed here.

Not dead, only dreaming…

My last day of teaching was one week ago. There’s lots to talk about still, but my Internet connection is a little spotty now that I’ve moved out of my apartment. I will provide new entries and status updates with as much regularity as I can manage.

My Trip To a Japanese Dentist

One thing I was told upon arriving in Japan was that Japanese toothpaste was no good and that I should have some good old fashioned American toothpaste shipped to my apartment as soon as possible if I hadn’t thought to bring any with me. Incidentally, I was told the same thing about deodorant, and condoms. Japanese dentistry as a whole did not garner rave reviews among the veteran teachers who were in charge of my training; I was told that dental procedures such as drilling for cavities are typically done over multiple visits, so you’d go in one day to get your tooth drilled and the hole covered with a temporary seal, and then make another appointment to have the cavity filled later. Not fun, and little in my experience has given me any reason to alter the dismal view of Japanese dentistry that I inherited from those that came before me. In my poor farming community I rarely encounter anyone over 30 who doesn’t have at least one gold tooth. I’ve met exactly one student with braces at either of the schools at which I teach.

That said, I do have dental insurance here, after a fashion. More than I’ll have when I return to the land of the free and the home of the brave. A few weeks after arriving in Japan I noticed what looked like a hole on the front of one of my lower premolars, which was not so surprising considering I hadn’t been to a dentist in years. It didn’t hurt unless I just brushed the crap out of it, but several months later I decided I’d get it checked out while still residing in a country known for its low-cost dentists, if not for said dentists’ quality.

“Getting it checked out” in this case involved me phoning the company I work for and scheduling an appointment with my IC, or “Independent Contractor.” ICs are usually housewives who my company calls upon periodically to assist helpless baby birds like me with procedures that are still well outside my capabilities to navigate. My IC showed up at my apartment on a Saturday morning and had me drive the three blocks to the nearest dentist’s office.

Upon entering I was told to take off my shoes and put on a pair of indoor sandals in order to maintain the cleanliness of the floor, which is pretty normal here but which also is an example of irony since the dentist himself wore white slacks with grease stains all along the front of them, such that he looked more like a mechanic than a licensed medical professional getting ready to stick his hands in my mouth. I noticed that his own teeth were pretty whacked out, which did not fill me with confidence either. I was ushered into an examination room and sat down in one of the chairs there. One of the assistants held out a special stand for me to put my glasses in, which is so totally Japan. The dentist selected some prodding instruments from a tray to the right and began the examination, which lasted all of a minute. He started in with some kind of explanation, his gaze darting back between me and the IC like he wasn’t sure who he should be addressing in this situation.

“None of your teeth are bad,” my IC said. “Do you have a pain?”

“No pain,” I said. “But I thought I saw a hole in my tooth.”

“But no pain?” She seemed confused as to why we were there if I didn’t have a tooth that felt like it was already rotting out of my mouth.

“I have no pain now, but I may later, right?” It took me about three minutes to explain my thought process behind getting a hole in my tooth looked at before it started hurting, and I pointed to the tooth in question again to make sure she knew what I was talking about.

A few more words between her and the dentist. “It is not a cavity,” she said. At this point she pulled her electronic dictionary out of her purse and started tapping at its keys while muttering “nandake, nandake” under her breath. Eventually, she looked up. “Not cavity. It is a baby tooth.” More conferring with the dentist, and then she said “These three teeth”—I held my lips down and looked in the mirror, and the dentist pointed at one premolar on each side of my lower row, and one premolar on the upper row— “these three teeth are baby teeth.” Looking at them now, they do look much smaller compared to the rest of the teeth in my mouth, but since reality for me is a construct of my own consciousness, I just assumed that that’s how premolars were supposed to look.

“Are you sure it’s okay, though?” I asked. “I mean, that really does look like a hole in my tooth there.”

This question led to the quickest mouth x-ray I’ve ever had. The dentist spoke as he pointed to the developed x-ray film, which led to more discussion between him, my IC, and the female dental assistant. Finally, my IC said, “Your baby teeth are not supposed to stay in your mouth this long. So they are damaged because they are not so strong. But I’m sorry, there is nothing he can do about this problem.”

My question is, how was this not caught before? Like, I admittedly have not been to the dentist in five years, since before I started college, but even at 19 it would have been unusual for me to have three baby teeth sitting in my mouth, right? Why am I hearing this for the first time via some dude who I need a translator to communicate with?

Despite being a waste of time, this trip to the dentist—including an x-ray—only cost me 2500 yen, or about $25. And that’s without any insurance, since my dental coverage doesn’t kick in until the yen equivalent of $75. So it may have been an abortive attempt to receive treatment, but at least it was a cheap abortive attempt.

Another interesting thing I noticed was the imagery used in the posters hung up on the walls of the waiting room, which definitely demonstrated a difference of perception between the East and the West. Consider the following example of a poster I saw near the entrance to the office (I made up the title, but everything else was just illustrated with pictures):

The Wonders of Nitrous Oxide -or- My Trip to the Dentist
Panel 1: A woman drawn in an angular style sits in a dentist’s chair with a nitrous oxide mask over her nose. The dentist prepares the tools of his grim trade nearby.
Panel 2: The same woman is shown walking on a rainbow as clouds in the shapes of adorable woodland creatures float in the sky around her.
Panel 3: The woman dances on giant piano keys.
Panel 4: The woman slowly awakes from the dental procedure, her eyes half-open. Having holstered his various sharp objects, the dentist stands over her looking reassuring.
Fin.

Not sure that would fly back home.

Sapporo Snow Festival 2009: Everyone Here Is Crazy

Sapporo Snow Festival 2009: Everyone Here Is Crazy

I visited Sapporo for the world-renowned Snow Festival in February. The ice sculptures were pretty great, but my enjoyment of them was hampered somewhat by the fact that there was heavy snow all weekend. This video was taken in Odori Park amidst the insanity of a severe blizzard situation, where the only non-crazy person within walking distance was whoever was performing in the Yamaha keyboard booth next to one of the main event stages.